- 149 km to Santiago
How to describe last night… it was a hard one. We couldn’t fall asleep and only dozed off after midnight. But that meant we were up early. By 6:00 we were packing, making coffee (still a few Black & Easy sachets left), eating bananas and small bites, and stepping out onto the trail.
Today we faced the last big climb before Santiago – the ascent to O Cebreiro. We also said goodbye to Castilla y León and entered the autonomous region of Galicia.
The climb runs beside, above and below the A Coruña highway – lots of asphalt. We passed several small villages. In Las Herrerías we had a coffee, then began the serious uphill to La Faba. Soon after, the Galicia border marker greeted us.
Then came O Cebreiro – a protected village full of history and symbolism. It’s one of the oldest pilgrim refuges. The village is known for its pallozas, Celtic-style round houses with deep, sloping thatched roofs, once shared by animals and people. Today, they serve mostly as museums.
This is also where priest Elias Valiña served – the pioneer of the modern Camino and the famous yellow arrow.
After a short rest, we hiked further to San Roque Pass (with its pilgrim monument) and up to Alto de Poio with its guesthouse and shelter.
We still had one last stretch to Fonfría – where, for the first time, we had a reservation. But as only Galicia can do, just before entering the village, a heavy downpour welcomed us.
Now we’re showered, resting, and waiting for dinner – hoping for a peaceful night.
Take care,
Martina & Ive
