93 km to Santiago
Today marks the beginning of week five of our long walk on the Camino. We started the morning with a nice breakfast in the well-equipped kitchen of Albergue Oasis and headed out.
The morning looked promising, but the forecast wasn’t. We crossed the second bridge out of Sarria and were immediately swept up in a stream of pilgrims. Everyone wants their Compostela – and for that, you need at least 100 km. Sarria is a popular starting point. We expected crowds, but this?
Soon we were weaving our way up and down through villages and pastures, along moss-covered stone paths between ancient oaks and chestnut trees. After a couple of hours, it started to pour. We stopped at a bar with other soaked pilgrims and had coffee – a small refuge in the storm.
It helped us continue. The trail became crowded with nervous cyclists, slipping dangerously on wet stones. They tried to share the footpath with us – not always gracefully. Luckily, the storm passed.
After the third long uphill, we decided to take a break. We stopped at a tiny bus shelter – just in time. The rain returned with thunder and lightning. We waited it out. Then, finally, we saw Portomarín in the distance.
This town once flourished in its original location – until the 1960s when the Miño River was dammed. The old village was submerged for a reservoir. The churches of San Nicolás and San Pedro were moved stone by stone and rebuilt on higher ground. Today, Portomarín overlooks the water with history and resilience.
You enter the town via steep steps and are greeted by views of the lake – now used for tourism.
I had booked an albergue yesterday, but never received confirmation. It turned into a mess. We almost didn’t get a bed. Fortunately, someone canceled and we got a room in the original place we wanted.
We shopped at the supermarket, made lunch, and now we’re peacefully napping.
It might be time to start looking at plane tickets home – and that feels surprisingly good.
Take care,
Martina & Ive
