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600 km to Santiago

We woke up early and had breakfast in the shared kitchen. After repacking our backpacks, we left the albergue while it was still dark. Navigating through the big city took time, as we searched for Camino signs and yellow arrows. The city has nicely arranged the exit path, leading past a sports and recreation area toward a lake. Fishermen sat quietly with their lines, ducks were honking and resting along the shore.

We continued through a pleasant park and uphill toward the village of Navarrete. Just before entering, we passed the ruins of a pilgrims’ hospice from 1185 – San Juan de Acre. The old town center of Navarrete is well preserved. The town is known for its pottery.

Right before leaving the town, the smell of coffee caught our attention. Apparently, we have a good nose for small local cafés that mostly serve retirees – we ended up in one yesterday too. The coffee was excellent, and the ham sandwiches were great. The prices were very reasonable.

We left Navarrete on a path that first runs alongside the highway but then veers away. We walked among vineyards – the grapevines here are knotted and gnarled, characteristic of the region. The soil is reddish and full of stones, and sometimes it feels like the vines are planted directly in the rocks. Olive groves appear occasionally.

The weather was pleasant, overcast, and windless, about 12°C – just right for me. Since rain was forecast for the afternoon, I was aiming for a 20 km day. We decided to stop in the village of Ventosa, which lies slightly off the main Camino route.

A cold wind began to blow, and the sky started to darken – our decision felt just right.

And of course, thanks again to Jadranka Smiljić (Sgeek s.p.) for making sure these Camino updates are fresh and polished every day.

Wishing you all a lovely evening from Ventosa – enjoy your weekend!

Martina Šavc

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