667 km to Santiago
Today we were already packed, fed, and ready before 7 AM. We passed by the Iglesia del Crucifijo – a Templar church with a Y-shaped cross – and over the old bridge that gave the town its name. We started walking in the dark, since sunrise here comes much later than back home.
But the evenings are longer – the sun sets around 8:42 PM. As I write this (at 7 PM), it’s still 23°C. In the morning, though, it was chilly enough that Ive needed gloves.
In the dark, we followed the trail between the Rio Arga river and the road. A steep climb took us past the highway and onward to Mañeru. Time for a break. We regularly air out our shoes, socks, and feet. Then we apply a thick cream, put on fresh socks, and back into our shoes – every 2–3 hours. It really helps prevent blisters.
Between grain fields and vineyards, we slowly made our way up to Cirauqui – a medieval village with narrow streets. We left the town via the remains of an old Roman road (Calzada Romana) and crossed the ruins of a small ancient bridge. The path kept going up and down, winding through wheat, grapes, and olive groves.
The climb to Lorca was tough, but finally, some relief followed. The sun was strong as we headed downhill through flat fields to Villatuerta. A lovely trail along the Ega River led us to Estella (or Lizarra).
At the entrance to town, a sign on a wall greeted us – with a message we understood very well (see photos). We laughed and moved on. The industrial side of Estella is quite noticeable – first you see it, then you smell it. We wondered if tomorrow’s stage will lead us somewhere with a nicer scent.
We continued to Ayegui, which seems like a suburb of Estella. There we found a Lidl, grabbed food for dinner, and checked into a renovated sports hall turned hostel. We received a mattress protector kit and made ourselves comfortable. Dinner was simple but perfect: pasta with tuna. Just what we needed. Then a shower, laundry, a quick report home, a beer, and off to bed.
Best wishes and good night – depending on when you’re reading this.
Yours, Martina
