229 km to Santiago
This morning… how to describe it? We grabbed bananas for breakfast and set off into a clear, crisp dawn. Today was one of the toughest days so far – both mentally and physically.
First, we walked to Santa Catalina de Somoza, where we had our first coffee. There were no stores, so we stocked up at El Ganso, and the kind shop owner even prepared breakfast for us.
Our trail mostly followed rough farm tracks alongside the local road. The terrain kept rising. In Rabanal del Camino, the last sizeable village before the major climb, we enjoyed a beer and some free tapas. Foncebadón awaited – once a ghost village, now revived and lively. In 2014, I found it unwelcoming. Today, it’s alive again.
Foncebadón – vasica, ki je bila skoraj zapuščena, danes pa znova zaživela. Leta 2014 je bila zame temačna, zdaj pa je polna prenočišč in življenja. A midva imava nor načrt: še naprej do El Aceba. But our plan was crazy: continue all the way to El Acebo.
Before that, though – the heart of the day: Cruz de Ferro.
A simple iron cross atop a wooden pole where pilgrims leave stones brought from home – representing burdens, hopes, and prayers.
I left two stones: one for myself, and one for a very dear girl fighting for her health.
This pilgrimage is also for her.
Ive laid down his stone too. We sat silently on a bench – each lost in our own thoughts. A deeply emotional moment.
And then, onwards.
Past Manjarín, where a self-declared descendant of the Templars keeps a shelter without running water or electricity.
The trail was brutal: rocky, steep, seemingly endless. Snow still lingered on the mountains to our left as we trudged on.
32 km danes. Peklenskih.
Finally, in the distance – the flags of El Acebo. We rushed, but it was almost 7 p.m. when we arrived. Only the third albergue had beds left. Quick shower, then a pilgrim’s menu dinner.
Each of us collapsed into our bed – exhausted, empty, and yet, somehow full.
Tomorrow – hopefully a gentler day.
Good night,
Martina & Ive
Martina & Ive
