263 km to Santiago
Ah, these mornings. We had breakfast right in our room, packed up, and started heading toward Astorga. But first, a few villages to cross.
We reached Hospital del Órbigo, where we finally treated ourselves to our first real coffee. This village is famous for its majestic 20-arch bridge (built in the 10th–11th century on Roman foundations). Every year, they still hold medieval jousting tournaments on the nearby fields.
Today was hot, with no shade, as we walked alongside many other pilgrims along the Camino Francés. Past a hill crowned with a cross, we finally caught sight of Astorga.
We pushed a little further to San Justo de la Vega – another coffee stop – then crossed a railway overpass and wandered through narrow streets to the Cathedral of Santa María and the Gaudí Episcopal Palace.
Astorga is a true gem – once the Roman stronghold of Asturica Augusta, controlling the gold mines at Las Médulas. Later, in the 18th and 19th centuries, it became a center of Spain’s chocolate industry.
I even snapped a photo of a restaurant boasting a Michelin star (2024). Impressive.
We captured some memories with the camera and hurried on – storm clouds were brewing. Luckily, the worst of the storm passed to our right, but in Valdeviejas, rain caught up with us anyway. Our ponchos helped… but only so much.
We looked for an albergue – closed. The contact number was barely readable. So we pressed on.
Finally, in Murias de Rechivaldo, we found a place. The first albergue didn’t appeal to us (no Wi-Fi), but Casa Flor welcomed us warmly. A shower, quick dinner, and a soft bed.
Tomorrow is a special day: the climb to Foncebadón and visit to Cruz de Ferro. We carry stones from home to leave there – symbolizing our burdens.
Now, sleep is calling.
Lahko noč,
Martina & Ive
