368 km to Santiago
This morning we left quickly – just a banana, juice, and some bread. No coffee. But soon we came across an open bar (also an albergue), and enjoyed a fantastic coffee and a nougat-filled pastry. The bartender was incredibly kind – it made our morning.
At the edge of the village, a sign on a bench read: “380 km – you are halfway through the Camino.” Yay! We continued through the fields, realizing that if our legs hadn’t hurt so much yesterday, Terradillos de los Templarios wouldn’t have been far at all.
I recognized the albergue I stayed in back in 2014 – still going strong.
Morning fog wrapped around green wheat fields as we reached San Nicolás, where we treated ourselves to a second coffee. Then onward to Sahagún, hoping quietly to find a private twin room.
Today was also shopping day: my shoes finally gave out – bought a new pair. My belt pouch? Done for – replaced. Found a pharmacy too and stocked up on gels, shampoos, and foot creams. Feeling refreshed.
We found an albergue, and at first, they said they had a twin room… but suddenly, it was “no longer available.” A bit of a letdown. More and more pilgrims book in advance, some even get taxied to their accommodations – and those of us walking the whole way might end up with nothing.
So, we moved on from Sahagún. Past fields and two vineyards (yes, I counted!) we reached Calzada del Coto – today’s final stop. A sweet village with an even sweeter volunteer host. The shop was closed, but a doorbell rang the owner, and he opened it just for us. Cash only. Love it.
A light meal, shower, and a small evening snack to end the day.
Sending warm greetings to Slovenia – yes, we admit, sometimes we miss home too.
Good evening or good day, depending when you read this.
Martina & Ive
