457 km to Santiago
No coffee this morning – just juice, bananas, yogurt, and some bread. We stepped into a cold, foggy morning. In Tardajos, locals were scraping ice from their windshields – it was -2°C. Cold, just like the last three days.
We walked toward Rabe de las Calzadas and had a wonderful coffee in a cozy pilgrim bar. Then we continued on through the fog and wheat fields. The trail felt endless. I literally had frost in my hair. My steps were steady, but my thoughts wandered.
Next came Hornillos del Camino – the place where I spent my first Camino night ten years ago. The same little shop, “469,” was still there, run by the same friendly man who has walked the Camino many times. We picked up a few essentials and moved on across quiet fields toward Hontanas. Fewer words, more thoughts.
There were many pilgrims on the trail. The fog finally lifted, and the wind wasn’t as biting anymore. Alongside the wheat now stood rows of wind turbines.
Hontanas appeared nestled in a small valley, sheltered from the wind. But no shop – so we had to continue. Another 10 kilometers on gravel paths running parallel to the main road. Tired, we came upon the ruins of the monastery of San Antón. There, pilgrims can sleep in very basic conditions. Not for us today.
Soon after, we reached one of Spain’s longest villages – Castrojeriz. It stretches along the hillside below a castle and is shaped like a crescent moon. We struggled to find Casa Nuestra albergue, and even more so to find a shop – tomorrow is a holiday and everything will be closed. In such a long village, finding a market wasn’t easy – but we managed.
Dinner: pasta. Then into the cold rooms – brrr! These old stone houses don’t hold much heat.
And now – good night.
Martina & Ive
