We started the day with a quick, minimal breakfast in Villafranca Montes de Oca – which literally means Goose Mountains in Spanish. We dressed warmly: long underwear, double shirts under jackets, and our rain ponchos ready. The forecast called for rain and wind.
Still, we were not discouraged and stepped out into a cold morning, made even colder by the wind – just 5°C. The first 12 kilometers took us through remote hills without a single stop, bar, or village. The wind howled, and while the rain only lightly sprayed, it was enough to chill us. The trail alternated between pine and oak forests, still muddy from previous days.
We found our rhythm and made our way toward San Juan de Ortega, passing a memorial to victims of the Spanish Civil War (1936). A short break to air out our feet and shoes, and then we continued. In San Juan, we had a tea that felt like heaven – we were freezing, even with all our layers.
From there, we walked on to Atapuerca, famous for the archaeological site where remains of early humans were discovered. The wind was still strong. Tired, we arrived in Ages and had a small snack from what was left in our packs. We watched a gander guard his goose while she fed.
Next came a climb past a military zone marked by barbed wire and “no trespassing” signs. At the top – a cross. We walked past what looked like weekend homes, with no signs of life, and finally reached today’s goal: Cardeñuela Riopico.
Just as we stepped into the lovely albergue, the sky opened with a mix of rain and snow. But we were safe and warm. We ordered food (no guest kitchen here), ate well, took hot showers, and crawled into our sleeping bags. First nap – done. Now we’re chatting happily in the common room.
Wishing you a cozy evening – stay warm.
Tomorrow we reach Burgos – a big city. We’ll continue past it, as we try to avoid staying in major towns. One-third of our Camino is behind us – and we’re excited for what’s still ahead.
Martina & Ive
