Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port → Roncesvalles / Orreaga (24.9 km – my step counter says 32.1 km)
We leave the albergo late in the morning. The sleep wasn’t exactly royal, but the breakfast was good – buffet. Barcaffe Black & Easy and we are already stepping into a new day.
Heavy clouds hang in the sky. Will it rain or not? We start with a projected 24.7 km. After 7 km – still cloudy, heavy, dark, but no rain. I’m thanking the gods of time. The joy of painting hasn’t gone away, despite the upswing.
Then it gets even cloudier. It starts raining and then blowing more. A cold wind is blowing from all sides—you’re soaked in an instant. I put on a cape to protect myself from the rain and wind. Nothing helps. The wind opens all the buttons. All pelegrines look at each other and can’t decide if a cape is helpful or a nuisance.
The rain stops after a few kilometers, but the wind persists and dries the windbreakers in an instant. But I hardly have time to observe the landscape – you have to lean on the wind to even move forward. So it was about 15 kilometers.
Because of the wind, we didn’t even notice when we crossed the border between France and Spain.
The scenery, however, is wildly beautiful. A huge number of horses grazing freely, a few cows, sheep and goats. We also saw a few foals. But the obstacle of the day remains the wind.
The Col de Lepoeder pass and an extended route – instead of 25 km, we walked as much as 32 km. For the first day, that’s a lot. We have probably taken all possible alternative routes.
We finally arrive at the albergue in Orreaga, where we are hosted by an old but modernized monastery. The bedrooms are on three levels, with an elevator, all clean and tidy. The organization is excellent.
And the people – there are a lot of us. A nearby tavern has run out of menus for pilgrims, so they serve only on an à la carte basis.
We’re already in bed now. It’s raining like a snowdrop outside. Hopefully the weather will be kinder tomorrow.
This is Camino – our first day almost completely off plan. But somehow, that’s exactly how it’s supposed to be.
More moments from the trail coming soon.
Martina 🙏💨🌧️
